Nepenthes Los Angeles presents a collaboration with Aurora Shoe Co.: the Middle English in Roughout Suede.
Aurora has produced the Middle English by hand since the early 1990s in a small workshop near Cayuga Lake. The silhouette sits between a shoe and a clog, with full forefoot coverage, an open instep, and a single strap. The name nods to monastic simplicity.
Nepenthes Los Angeles chose roughout suede for this edition. The process begins with Horween’s Chromexcel, renowned for its dense oils and soft temper, then reverses the hide to reveal a lively, uneven nap. It reads like an “off-menu” Horween suede, since the tannery offers only snuffed suede, sanded to a fine, uniform hand.
This version embraces irregularity. The rough suede is intentionally unfinished, and subtle shifts in texture and tone differ from pair to pair, ranging from black to dark olive. That variance provides a distinct identity that expands with wear. Over time, the leather develops a unique patina, softening around the foot while holding its shape.
Each piece of leather is cut and stitched by hand. Since the shoe is unlined, the smooth side of the Chromexcel leather provides both structure and comfort. The outsole is Vibram and secured with nails rather than cement for easy resoling.
To suit the upper, Nepenthes Los Angeles specified a gunmetal buckle, black thread for a restrained look, and a hot-stamped Nepenthes Los Angeles logo on the insole.
The Middle English in Roughout Suede fits Los Angeles. It’s smart enough for the office, steady enough for a relaxed hike, and looks right everywhere in between. It might be the only shoe you’ll ever need.
