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Welcome to “DEEP DIVE,” where we explore the inspirations behind some of our favorite Engineered Garments pieces. This installment examines the Engineered Garments Claigton Jacket.
The Claigton Jacket has been part of the Engineered Garments collection for many years, though it appears less regularly than staples like the Bedford Jacket or Loiter Jacket. In a lineup often defined by intricate pocket arrays, detachable hoods, hidden plackets, and prominent reinforcement stitching, the Claigton can easily slip under the radar.
Yet its appeal lies precisely in that restraint. There is nothing excessive or ornamental about it. It is simply a jacket, perhaps even a perfect jacket, accomplishing exactly what it sets out to do.
That clarity of purpose comes directly from its military roots. The jacket traces its lineage to the U.S. Army Class B Windbreaker, often referred to by collectors as the AG-274 Windbreaker. Introduced in the early 1960s, it formed part of the Army’s expanding Army Green (AG) service uniform system, which had been established in 1954 to replace the WWII-era olive drab service uniform.
Unlike combat garments designed to endure extreme cold, heavy wear, or battlefield mobility, the windbreaker served a different role. It was intended for life on base, providing a lightweight outer layer for soldiers wearing the Class B uniform. The design offered protection from wind and light rain while maintaining a clean, professional appearance.
Accordingly, the construction was straightforward but carefully considered: a covered slide-fastener front closure, collar stand with a two-button throat tab, simple point collar, and button cuffs. A pair of patch pockets provided utility without excess bulk, while epaulets allowed officers to display rank slides. Some versions also included a detachable liner for additional warmth.
Like OG-107, the term AG-274 refers to a standardized olive shade rather than the design of the garment itself. The fabric was typically treated with a Quarpel (Quick Air-Repellent) water-resistant finish, a durable military treatment developed to protect against rain and mildew.
Early examples used a 50% polyester / 50% cotton blend, which soon evolved into the familiar 65% polyester / 35% cotton poplin. This fabric would become one of the defining American textiles of the second half of the twentieth century. Combining breathability, quick drying, and durability, it softened with wear while remaining capable of enduring thousands of wash cycles.
The same blend found wide adoption beyond the military. Outdoor pioneers such as Sierra Designs and The North Face relied on similar poly-cotton fabrics for their earliest shell jackets and vests, drawn by the same balance of performance and durability.
The silhouette proved versatile enough that closely related jackets appeared across other branches of the U.S. armed forces. The USAF Type II Lightweight Jacket and the U.S. Navy Man’s Windbreaker share the same essential blouson form: waist-length, zip-front, and rear tabs. Versions were even produced in khaki for tropical service uniforms, and the style remained common through the 1970s before gradually disappearing from uniform systems in the following decade.
The jacket enters the Engineered Garments repertoire largely intact, with only subtle refinements. Epaulets are removed, the sleeve lining simplified, the armhole relaxed slightly, and the overall proportions pushed just a bit further. The name itself is a sly nod to one of the contractors that once produced the original military jackets.
There is a timelessness to the design. It adapts easily to nearly any dress code. The Engineered Garments Claigton Jacket captures one of the enduring strengths of military design: when utility is pursued with discipline and clarity, elegance often follows naturally.
Available at Nepenthes Los Angeles, Nepenthes Woman Los Angeles, and online at nepenthesamerica.com.